BANGKOK

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DESTINATIONS A-Z

FACTS

Temples decorated with gold, diamond-studded buddhas, vast gardens and skyscrapers – past, present and future lie close together in Bangkok. If you look behind its modern facade, the "village in the plum grove" is full of exoticism.

Bangkok is a city of extremes where everything moves faster than in the rest of Thailand. The volume of traffic is enormous, the city is sprawling uncontrollably and literally is about to sink. The "Venice of the East" indeed has something in common with the Italian lagoon city: It sinks 5 cm (about 2 inches) a year.

Meanwhile, the government has dealt with the environmental problems by setting strict rules – only a few years ago it was dangerous to stay out of doors for a considerable time without respiratory mask.

Bangkok attracts millions of people every year. The "City of Angels" subsists on the royal myths, the richness of the temples and the craving for spiritual enlightenment. If you look behind the modern facade, you will actually find some quiet places.

Floating markets, Thai boxing matches, tuk-tuks, nightlife- there's much to tell about the bustling city between tradition and modernity except one thing: that it is boring.

 

 

DESTINATIONS A-Z

FIGURES

With 168 letters, Bangkok has the longest official place name in the world: "Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Ayuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Piman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit".

Name in official language
Krung Thep Mahanakhon
Country
Thailand
Geographical position
13° 45' north latitude, 100° 31' east longitude
MSL altitude
20 m
Population
6.642.566 (2005 census)
Calling code
+66 (0)2
Currency
1 Euro = 44.89 THB (Baht)
UTC difference
+ 7 h
CET difference
+ 6 h (summer time + 5 h)
Official homepage
www.bma.go.th
Buddhist temples
over 400
DESTINATIONS A-Z

GET AROUND

Airport Suvarnabhumi International Airport is located 30 km east of Bangkok(www2.airportthai.co.th). You have the choice between buses with or without air conditioning, the destination is announced in English (about 2 €). Depending on the traffic volume, travel time is between 30 minutes and three hours. Trains go to the central station- they are more comfortable and safer than buses.

Skytrain
The bus system in Bangkok is not easy to see through, and it is often uncomfortable and muggy inside the buses. The newest invention, which significantly reduces traffic, is the "Skytrain": A city railway on high columns. The trains are neat, the ticket vending machines easy to use (about 1 € per drive). Tip: Look for a hotel that is located near a Skytrain stop.

Taxi
In the city, taxis (often air-conditioned and cheap), tuk-tuks (motorised rickshaws) and motorcycle taxis shove themselves through the traffic. Together with the khlong boats (canal boats), motorcycle taxis are an alternative to traffic jams and long waiting periods. The licensed taxis are painted blue-red and have taximeters. If you drive with another version, negociate the price beforehand to avoid high costs.

DESTINATIONS A-Z

SIGHTSEEING

Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo
Behind a 1900 m long wall are the Royal Palace and the Wat Phra Kaeo, the temple of the Emerald Buddha. The 31 inches high Buddha, however, is not made of emeralds but of jade. It is one of the most worshipped Buddha statues of the country- yet it is easily overlooked amidst all the glitter of the richly decorated temple. The buildings belonging to the Royal Palace are built in the classic Thai-style and the Victorian style. The visitor is presented a fairy-tale image. Admission only in decent clothing, even sandals are proscribed!
Th Na Phra Lan, tel. 623 55 00, 8.30am-3.30 pm, entrance about 3 €,
http://www.palaces.thai.net

Wat Pho
One of the biggest and oldest monasteries in Thailand- Wat Pho is even older than Bangkok itself. The "Sleeping Buddha" is the main attraction, a 45 m long and 15 m high gilded Buddha statue. Pay attention to the mother of pearl inlays on the soles of his feet- and the "touts" who lure tourists into their shops near the temple to rip them off mercilessly.
2 Sanamchai Road, 8am-12 and 1pm-5pm, entrance about 0,50 €,
http://www.watpho.com

Ancient City
Thailand as an open-air museum: 112 attractions are exhibited in form of miniatures. If you do not about to leave Bangkok, then you get a good impression on what you are missing in different parts of Thailand.
Sukhumvit Road, Tel.: 24 10 57, 8 am – 5 pm, Entrance fee approx. € 7,50, www.ancientcity.com

Jim Thompsons houses
In 1967 the New Yorker architect and silk manufacturer Jim Thomson mysteriously disappeared. His amazing Thai-framehouses at the Chao-Phraya-River once even impressed Charlie Chaplin and Somerset Maugham who were fascinated by this traditionally Thai oasis of calmness in the middle of the bustling city. This property lies in between a small jungle which protects the inner artefacts of Asian art.
Soi Kasem San 2, Tel: 216 73 68, 9 am – 5 pm
www.jimthompsonhouse.org

Lak Muang
Bangkok’s headstone fulfils multiple functions: distances get measured from here and it not only fulfils wishes it also shelters the ghost-minder of the city, health and wealth.
Maha Chai Road, Tel.: 694 12 22, 6 am – 8.30 pm

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INSIDER TIP

Thai Massage
Thanks to Buddha, Thais have an old household remedy against stress: the Thai massage. Professional dislocation in modern ambience, but also Royal milk baths, hydrotherapy and the high art of Thai good, hard massaging are offered in the "Leyana Spa".
33 Thonglor 13, Soi Torsak, tel. 874 44 61, 10am-10pm, http://www.leyanaspa.com

View over Bangkok
The 309 m high "Baiyoke Sky Hotel", Bangkok's highest building, offers the most beautiful view of the city. In clear weather, you can see as far as to the Gulf of Thailand. In the 84th storey, the open air skywalk turns 360 degrees. Ideal for the less brave is the glazed observation platform in the 77th storey.
222 Ratchaphrarop Rd., 10.30am-10.30pm, entrance about 3 €, http://www.baiyokehotel.com

Faux pas
- Thais are very tolerant, but those who criticise the royal house are in troubles.
- Kissing in public and topless bathing are offensive and prohibited.
- You have to pay a fine for throwing away litter or cigarettes in the open street.
- Drug possession or drug traffic at worst can carry the death penalty.
- Informal and saucy clothes are forbidden in the sacred temples, women mustn't touch monks and mustn't sit next to them in the bus.
- Those who cannot control their emotions and argue heatedly cannot expect being treated with respect.
- The foot as lowest part of the body mustn't be pointed towards others and neither should touch a native's head.

DESTINATIONS A-Z

EAT & DRINK

Viennese have their "hot dog stand" and Thais have their cookshop: At every corner, you can eat cheaply and well and try all kinds of adventurous food- fried grasshoppers or marinated bamboo maggots are actually no appetite suppressants but are considered a delicacy.

Harmonique
Chicken with lemon grass, spring rolls and shrimps with wine sauce are the traditional dishes served in this restaurant. The atmosphere of the former Chinese residence is so romantic, however, that one could easily forget about the food. While the facade appears rather ordinary, the interior surprises with a picturesque combination of exotic gardens and Old Chinese wooden art work. An insiders' tip for lovers!
22 Charoenkrung 34, tel. 237 81 75, Mon-Sat 11am-10pm

Rang Mahal
In the 26th storey of the Hotel Rembrandt, classic North Indian cuisine is served. The "Rang Mahal" was already rated several times as the best Indian restaurant in Bangkok. If you reserve a table at the window, you'll have the city at your feet.
19 Sukhumvit Rd., Soi 18, tel. 61 71 00, 11.30am-2.30pm 6.30pm-10.30pm, http://www.de.hotel.rembrandtbkk.com

Supatra River House
The restaurants at the river are very popular, besides the two storeyed Thai-house also has some history: The famous business woman and suffragette Khunying Supatra Singholaga used to live here. Today the focus is on traditional cuisine and classic dances. The ferry from Maharaj pier is for free.
266 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arunamarin Road, Tel.: 411 03 05, 10 am – 2 pm and 6 pm – 11 pm; Show: Fri and Sat at 8.30 pm

Thai on 4
This fancy restaurant reveals functional postmodernism and sterile design. The Thai Jamie Oliver, Sisamon Kongpan supplies his guest with culinary masterpieces. One of his specialities is roasted coconut-pulp, with Thai spices, rolled in leaves and sprinkled with Tamarinde-sauce.
Petchburi Road 847, Level 4, Tel.: 653 90 00
www.amari.com/watergate/thaion4.asp

The Spice Market
The hotel in the Four Seasons hotel is furnished in the style of an old spice shop. It is one of the city’s best Thai restaurants. Try the clams with asparagus or the grilled duck with honey!
155 Ratchadamri Rd., Tel.: 50 10 00, 11.30 am – 2.30 pm and 6 pm – 11 pm www.fourseasons.com

DESTINATIONS A-Z

HOTELS

In Bangkok one finds accomodation easily. For about 100 €, you can count on all imaginable luxury. In the "Khao San Road", the meeting point no.1 of backpackers, beds start at 5 €.

Baan Chantra
For those seeking recreation, the comfortable boutique hotel near the overcrowded Khao San Road provides a deliberately small setting. Seven rooms in traditional style give a feeling of hospitality and there are many plants and silent corners for recreation.
Samsen Road 120/1, tel. 62 86 98 89, DR starting at 40 € 40, www.khaosanroad.com/baan_chantra/home.htm

Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa
A charming luxury hotel in the Thai style directly located on the west bank of the Chao Phraya river. The hotel's own shuttle boat carries you every 15 minutes to the other side of the river to the Skytrain station from which you can explore all facets of Bangkok. Centre of the hotel is a tropic garden with a huge pool, sun terrace and jacuzzi. Bring your appetite for the seven specialty restaurants.
257 Charoennakorn Road, tel. 247 600 22, DR starting at 100 €, www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/bkkth-bangkok-marriott-resort-and-spa/

Scorpion Tailed Boat Village
Just 5 minutes walking distance from the old walls, these countrified bungalows are located. The Thai cabins are formed like a boat, the park win over thanks to the calm, intimate atmosphere and the traditional tranquillity. Excursions along the Ping River are for free.
Charoenrad Road 381/1, Tabol Watket Muang, Chiangmai, Tel.: 01 960 93 98, DR starting at approx. € 20,–
www.khaosanroad.com/scorpion/scorpion_tailed_boat_village_index.htm

Davis Bangkok
Whether a traditionally furnished 33m² standard room, a 250m² luxurious villa with Feng-Shui swimming pool, a two storied suite or a hyper-modern conference room – here each guest finds something for his taste. Only the buttons of the remote control are small here.
88 Sukhumvit 24, Klongteoy, Tel.: 260 80 00, DR starting at approx. € 58,– up to approx. € 220,– per villa
www.davisbangkok.net

Further hotel information at various price classes: www.bangkok-hotels-online.com

DESTINATIONS A-Z

NIGHTLIFE

Having fun during a night out is the ultimate ambition of the Thais. Rather than listening to any symphony orchestras, they prefer singing in a karaoke bar and they rather visit a boxing event than a ballet. Bangkok has much to offer for night revellers.

Q Bar
Here the cool songs are played by the trendiest DJs, the women seem straight from the catwalk and the drinks could be from New York. Don't be too shy in your choice of clothing: Everything en vogue and barely covered is appreciated here.
34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, tel. 252 32 74, www.qbarbangkok.com

Narcissus
Dance lovers get their money's worth in this huge nightclub for Bangkok's stylish disco scene. The light and sound system is fairly the best one gets for money. On the outside it looks like a Greek temple.
112 Sukhumvit Rd., Soi 23, tel. 58 48 05, 9pm-2am,

Bangkok Bar
International understanding gets celebrated in this bar in the former hippie district: local students and tourists squeeze themselves in the overcrowded club. The DJ tries hard to fulfil the guests’ wishes and plays everything across-the-board. Cocktails, fine food and cheap beer in a crossover-ambience.
Soi Rambutri 149, Tel.: 629 44 43

Bamboo Bar
In this noble yet comfortable bar in the Oriental Hotel the rich and the famous meet up. Nowhere else such great jazz is played!
Oriental Avenue 48, Tel.: 659 90 00, Fri and Sat 11 am – 2 am; Sun-Thu 11 am – 1 am

Calypso Cabaret
Stunning “ladymen� present quaint and high-voltage travesty shows. Directed by a guy from Hamburg who not only attaches importance to opulent costumes but also to sophisticated performances and staging.
Phaya Thai Road, Tel.: 61 63 55, Shows at 8.15 pm and 9.45 pm
www.calypsocabaret.com

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SHOPPING

Bangkok's shopping centres are among the biggest in the world and offer even for shopaholic tourists an overdose of textiles, perfumes, shoes, household supplies, toys, electronics and antiques.

The Emporium
For shopping excesses in the sublime style: Gucci shines next to Prada, Louis Vuitton sparkles next to Versace. This shopping centre is a dream come true for diamond-studded credit cards and golden cheque books. The less wealthy put their blinkers on and race towards the cinema in the upper storey.
622 Sukhumvit Soi 24, tel. 664 80 00, www.emporiumthailand.com

Khao San Road Area
This unofficial market stands at the other side of the wage level and from punk band shirts to I-Love-Mum tattoos offers everything the backpacker of today hasn't yet got in his bag. North of the market some smaller shops can be found that even offer furniture. Tip: If you buy a (not quite legal) DVD here, mind the code! You need a code-free device to play the DVDs.
Banglamphu, north of the Grand Palace and Ratchadamnoen Road

Chatuchak Weekend Market
Even if you're not buying anything, don't miss Asia's biggest weekend market. The over 9000 market stalls guarantee a fascinating flânerie through the so-called biggest flea market in the world. Here you find everything: Siamese fighting fishes, cowboy hats and freakish clothes, brass ventilators and bonsai trees, coffee pots, art and junk, useful things and curiosities. Tip: Arrive as early as possible when it's not yet that hot and crowded.
Chatuchak Park, Phahonyothin Rd., Sat and Sun 7am-6pm

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SOUVENIRS

What is produced in Thailand stays in Thailand. Due to several temple robberies, a law was passed in Bangkok that prohibits the export of antiques. So picking up the emerald Buddha is not recommendable.

L'Arcadia
Traditional furniture and carvings- all with guaranteed certificates of genuineness, all guaranteed fakes.
12/2 Sukhumvit Soi 23, tel. 259 15 17

Narai Phand
The largest selection of artisan craftwork and handiworks throughout Thailand: Ceramics, lacquer ware, bronze and tinware, carvings- just everything that looks good in the cabinet at home.
Ploenchit Road 971, Lumpini, tel. 656 07 77, www.naraiphand.com

T. Shinawatra
Fine Thai silk from Jim Thompson's factory.
94 Sukhumvit Soi 23, tel. 258 02 95

Street traders
Get cheap souvenirs from street traders (Silom Road, Sukhumvit Road from Soi 4, Khao San Road, Chinatown) and at markets: Fans, temple reliefs on rice paper and all kinds of sun umbrellas.

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