PRAGUE

Franz Kafka wrote almost one hundert years ago about "Mother Prague" and "her love to her children" - that is now still how it was then. Everybody who once walked through the cobblestone streets and gothic alleys adoring the moon above Europe's most beautiful captial's towers and tops, wants to come back. Today Dvoraks and Smetanas music belongs to Europe's cultural heritage as well as the masterpieces of Franz Kafka, Egon Erwin Kisch and Jaroslav Seifert.

The Czech capital is small and compact. The central quarters Staré Mìsto (Old Town), Josefov, Nové Mìsto (New Town) and Malá Strana (Lower Town) are the most important zones. Best way to explore them is by foot. Even though the several centuries old credentials are very impressive you should not forget that Prague also bore successful architects, artists and designers in the 20th century. Modern Czech art is spread out all over the city in galleries and art collections, there is live music daily in jazz bars - and Hospodas (beer pubs) on almost every street corner that sell the allegedly best beer in the world.

The public traffic system in Prague (Buses, trams and underground) is well developed, also the outer districts can be reached easily. All public transportations accept the same tickets, there are two fares: short distance for CZK 14,- are valid in buses and trams for 20 minutes (no transfers) and in the Metro (underground train) for four stops or respectively 30 min. The transfer tickets for CZK 20,- are valid 75 min on weekdays, between 8 pm and 5 am,- but on Saturday, Sunday and holidays they are valid for 90 min. The tickets can be purchased in most of the Metro stations, tobacconists or ticket machines at the stops.
Hint: always make sure to carry the right amount of change with you or buy several tickets ahead. The ticket has to be stamped before entering your chosen transportation otherwise you have to face a big penalty fee between CZK 500,- and 1000,- due to frequent controls. Different railway or daily passes are available at the traffic headquarters.
There are some airlines and also the major hotels offer a shuttle service. Tranfering with shared taxis is highly recommended, labeld with red title "Airport-Centrum" that gets you to Náměstí Republiky for CZK 100,-.

Old Town(Staré Město)
The angeled and vivid alleys conjure Prague's flair. In the Old Town, after the floods, a lot of gothic buildings were extended in baroque style which is particularly notably along Celetná and Husová. The cellars are now used as cozy wine taverns and restaurants.
Metrostation: Staroměstská (A)

Old Town Ring (Staroměstské náměstí)
In the 12th century the Old Town Ring was used as emporium for spices, silk, jewelry and breeding animal. The ring's facades show architectural styles from different centuries, cafés and restaurants invite for a nice resting break. Main attraction would be the astronomic clock with an hourly "Apostle-Parade" (9am-9pm). City Hall's tower offers an impressive view.
Metrostation: Staroměstská (A)

St. Niklas church
St. Niklas church is a masterpiece of baroque era. Some of the most important artists and master builders of Prague worked on the church's edification. One of Europe's biggest ceiling fresco spans on around 1500 m², Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart played the organ from the 18th century.
Metrostation: Malostranska

Discretion is the better part of valour.
Even though an official kilometer-fee was introduced in 2004 a lot of taxi drivers still charge an extraordinary amount of money. Do not rely on the taximeter, and negotiate the price in advance. A ride inside of Prague should not be more than CZK 1000,–. If there is a justified suspicion of fraud you should refuse to pay and/or demand the receipt for the police.

Tourist rates
A lot of times restaurants surcharge cover, live-music or the friendly offered schnaps. If you are displeased with your check a clarifying conversation with the manager helps: he mostly speaks foreign languages and is not interested in awkward scenes.

Particular caution is necessary when it comes to pickpockets. Pilferers in disguise as tourists steal behind outspread city maps. Especially tricky are assumed plainclothes policemen who confiscate "bogus money" on side streets.

Letenský zámeÄ?ek
The Letná-castle on Vlrava hill is a restaurant and deli. In the summer the beer garden rises in the park which is lovely for an after-dinner walk.
Letenské sady 34, Tel.: 33 37 82 00 oder 33 37 56 04, 10am–midnight www.letenskyzamecek.cz

U Sadlu
There is a category on the menue that's called "food for two mighty knights" for the bigger appetite. Tables and walls covered with swords are as solid as the portions.
Balbínova 22, Tel.: 22 25 24 11, www.usadlu.cz

Lary Fary
The restaurant is famous for its barbecue delicacies and also its interior: every room is designed differently.
Dlouha 30, Tel.: 22 32 01 54

Světozor
The modern ice-cream parlour in an alley of Wenzelplace is mainly appreciated by the local teenagers. You can stroll around Franciscan gardens with ice-cream in your hand.
VodiÄ?kova 39, 9am–8pm

Designhotel Sax
Neo-classical building with light-flooded atrium in the embassadors quarter on the small side.
Jánský vršek 328, Tel.: 57 53 12 68, DR from € 116,–, www.sax.cz

Hotel Evropa
The 2-Star-house inspires its guest already since 1905 with Art Nouveau interior. A Viennese style café is affiliated.
Václavské náměstí 25, Tel.: 24 21 53 87, DR from € 48,–, www.evropahotel.cz

Hotel Opera
The probably oldest hotel in Prague is in business since 1890 but hardly shows its age. The building holds 59 rooms where pets are welcome.
Těšnov 13, Tel.: 22 31 56 09, DR from € 99,–, www.hotel-opera.cz

Hotel Leon
The hotel got completely renovated in 2006 and is located close to city center. All rooms are non-smoking. An even cheaper alternative would be the "Hostel Leon", which is situated in the same building. Here two rooms share a bath room.
Ortenovo namesti 26, 20 94 13 51, DR from € 41,–, www.leonhotel.eu

Radost FX
The first US-Club of Prague is beloved by some but hated entirely by others. Even though only a few Czech are visiting the place is always packed. Rich brunch variety and a galerie in the back room.
Bělehradská 120, Tel.: +420 603 18 15 00, 11pm–3am www.radostfx.cz

U Fleku (at the stain)
The pub owning a dark beer brewery is one of the most beautiful of Prague for more than 500 years. Fairly expensive for Prague circumstances and in the summertime the beer garden is full of tourists.
Křemencova 11, Tel.: 24 93 40 19 20

Laterna magika
Dispite the numerous competition this blacklight theater is still number one. Well worth seeing would be both the enchanting illusions with dramatic art and video technics and also the witty front of the building.
Národní třída 4, Tel.: 24 93 14 82, www.laterna.cz

Agharta
In a side alley of Wenzelplace, this club could be equally situated in Manhattan or Chelsea.
Krakovská 5 (Nové Město), Tel.: 22 21 12 75, from 9pm

Pasáz Myslbek
A modern shopping mall in steel-glas-concrete-construction, namend after the sculptor who created the St. Wenceslaus statue at Wenzelsplace.
Na Príkope 19-21, Tel.: 24 83 50 00, www.myslbek.com

Havelmarket (Havelský trh)
It is situated only a couple of steps from Wenzelplace and definitely worth the walk.
Havelské námestí, Metrostation: Můstek (A, B)

Helena Fejková
The boutique of designer Helena Fejková is not only popular by the Prague's fashion-concious women but also by the men. The quality is good and the outfits are affordable.
Štěpánská 56 (Lucerna-Passage), Tel.: 24 21 15 14, www.helenafejkova.cz

Cristallino
Here are souvenirs made of glas etc.
Celetná 12, Tel.: 24 22 30 27, www.cristallino.cz

Pohádka (Fairy tales)
At Jiří Kopecký's store you can acquire Czech legends: the puppet mole from "Sendung mit der Maus", Cat Mikesch as marionette or soldier Schwejk made of felt.
Celetná 32, Tel.: 24 23 94 69

Česká lidová řemesla
This is the right place for popular local souvenirs: wooden toys, pottery, textiles, smithery and bohemian painted easter eggs.
Mostecka 13, Metrostation: Malostranská (A)