ISTANBUL

Modern spirit next to the ancient world, Christianity next to Islam, functional multistory buildings next to very old mosques: two huge suspension bridges and a busy ferry traffic connect the two continents on which the Turkish city was built.

Ca. 660 B.C, Doric Greeks founded a tranquil port on the Bosporus: "Byzantion". At  the same spot, Roman emperor Constantine the Great had "New Rome" built in 324 A.D., uniting both parts of the Roman Empire and later becoming the capital of the Byzantine Empire under the name Constantinople. After the Ottoman conquest towards the end of the 15th century, little by little, the name "Istanbul" ("place that is full of Islam") caught on. Devastating for the city were the plundering crusaders who destroyed many historically invaluable objects of art, but it turns out that the Anatolian Plate that is convergent with the Eurasian Plate, pushing Turkey back and forth and squeezing it in, is just as devastating: Istanbul is still in danger of massive earthquakes. Earthquakes already killed numerous people in 1509, 1766, 1894, 1999 and 2001.

A modern tramway ("Çağdaş Tramvay") runs across the old Istanbul. Additionally, there are two historic tramways.

Atatürk Havalimanı
The airport is located 24 km south-west of the city center. Taxi prices depend on the duration of the ride: a 5-min taxi-ride from the airport to "Yeşilköy" costs about € 4.00, and to "Beykoz", which is a 50-minute ride, costs € 27.00. Buses are cheaper, but the ticket price depends on the destination. There is also a subway taking tourists from the airport directly into the European part of the city (ticket price approx. € 0.70). www.ataturkairport.com

"Tünel" and "Füniküler Kabataş–Taksim"
Additionally, there are two underground cable railways between Karaköy and Tünel Square (Tünel Meydanı) and between Kabataş, which is located on the Bosporus, and Taksim-Plat.
www.iett.gov.tr/en/section.php?sid=44

Hagia Sophia
The last important late ancient Roman building is a symbol for the troublesome co-existence of Christians and Muslims in the city: in the 6th century, it used to be by far the largest Christian church due to its daring architecture. After the Constantinople conquest, the Ottomans rebuilt it so it became a mosque, adding four minarets. It has been a museum sicen 1932. 100 master craftsmen and 10,000 journeymen contributed to the mysterious construction of the building. Taking into account the 6th century's technical equipment, how was it possible to construct a 56-m high dome with a diameter of 31 m on only four piers?
Sultanahmet, tel. 522 17 50, Tuesday through Sunday, 9 a.m. - 5 p.m.

For example, what would "Istiklal Caddesi" be without the man who sells his "Köfte özel", a special kind of meat balls? His wife has cooked the fried delicacies, the sophisticated gentleman in the white clothes tells his customers proudly. The praised women mostly operates in the background, and with good reason: everyone who tries the speciality will be inclined to kneel down and propose to her instantly.

Cemberlitas Hamam
This Turkish bath is said to be the best in the city. Relax on the hot stone, let someone massage you properly or just enjoy a steam bath. All of that happens below the light-spotted domes of a historic hamam from 1584. After an exhausting day, the lapping water will have a calming effect on you. Also, the other visitors usually chat quietly. There are separate ares for men and women.
Vezirhan Caddesi 8, tel. 522 79 74, opening hours 6 a.m. - midnight, entrance fee from about € 15.00, www.cemberlitashamami.com.tr

The snack selection ranges from kebab burgers with Cola Turka in one of the many takeaway restaurants to the traditional circular bread with sesame seeds ("Simit") that is sold by traveling hawkers on every street corner. "Lion milk" (Enlgish translation) is how the Turks call Raki mixed with water .

Haci Abdullah
This establishment was founded in 1888 and has been awarded Istanbul's best restaurant on several occasions. The chef's lamb legs and kebab creations are famous all over the world, and the stewed fruit are delicious. Alcoholic beverages are not served at the restaurant. Booking in advance is recommended.
Sakizagaci Cad. 17, tel. 293 85 61, opening hours noon - 10.30 p.m., www.haciabdullah.com.tr

Istanbul Hostel
Backpackers can take a peek at the Hotel Four Seasons from the youth hostel patio. Doing so, they will probably rejoice over the fact that their accommodation is just as good but a lot cheaper. Clean rooms, bellydance in the comfy basement bar, a courtyard entwined by grapevines as well as hot dogs and burgers served in the cafeteria.
Kutlugun Sokak 35, from € 10.00 per person,

Ayasofya Pansiyonlari
At this hotel you are accommodated right in the heart of the historic Istanbul, virtually between the Hagia Sophia back door and the Topkapi Palace front door. The nine buildings housing the pension were lovingly renovated in the Ottoman style. While in terms of atmosphere, there is a thin line between trashy and romantic, the latter usually outweighs the former. The special atmosphere even made Roman Polanski and Bernando Bertolucci stay.
Sogukcesme Street, Sultanahmet, tel. 513 36 60, double room from € 110.00, www.ayasofyakonaklari.com

The numerous bars and night clubs on the Bosporus, in the area of "Kuruçeşme" and "Bebek" are romantic and exclusive. Traditional entertainment can be found at "Etiler",where people dance to Turkish music. In the area of "Istiklal Avenue" (inside tip: "Dogstar"), punk, rock and metal experience a revival.

360 Istanbul
There is a 360° panaroma view over the city from the glass fronts of this noble entertainment venue. For dinner, the restaurant serves Bollywood chicken. The bar offers fantastic cocktails and the night club plays house and techno. Hip, trendy, fancy and modern - this is Istanbul's Western side, represented here spot-on.
Misir Apt. K:8 N:32/309, tel. 251 10 42, www.360istanbul.com

Huge shopping towers like "Capitol" in Üsküdar, "Carousel" in Bakirköy, "Metro City" in Levent or "Akmerkez", which was awarded Europe's best shopping mall, tend to seduce the unexperienced customers. Visiting the Kapalı Çarşı (Great Bazar) is just as overwhelming: for 600 years, the vendors there have been practicing the art of persuading doubtful customers and people who "just take a look" to buy something. A recommendation: leave the main shopping paths at the Bazar which primarily offers kitschy souvenirs. In the side alleys, you will find Turkish grandmothers that carefully pick the right one out of hundreds of fabrics or bargain for golden earrings for their granddaughters. Even visitors, if they exhibit a lot of patience and bargaining skills, can buy pretty jewelry and carpets here.

Vakko
The city's best and most versatile designer: trendy and highly expensive fashion for men and ladies ((Prestiqe Mall Alisveris Merkezi Gölet Bolqesi Ka), fancy Ottoman furniture or chocholate and tea in the in-house teahouse (Istiklal Cad. 123-125). www.vakko.com

Limited tin soldiers are filed up at Galeri Alfa (Faikpasa Yokusu 47/2 Çukurcuma), while Ottomania (Sofyali Sok. 30-32) sells very old maps. The Artrium (Tünel Geçidi 7) deals in ceramics and textiles, and the nearby Ottoman Miniatures & Calligraphy (Istiklal Cad. 6) specializes in Turkish and Muslim calligraphy.

Kapalı Çarşı
The roofed maze of alleys and corners makes the atmosphere of historic Istanbul come back to life: carpets, jewelry, ceramics, gold and silver-ware are sold in the streets. A recommendation: the Egyptian bazar right around the corner offers a special treatment to spoiled health fanatics - leeches kept in glass envelopes are used for biological blood-letting.